Hacking the Microsoft MN-510 USB adapter - Page 2

peekitty · 06-23-2004

Yes, you should be able to do it in exactly the same manner.

peekitty · 06-23-2004

Having done some more testing with a hacked vs. non-hacked unit, I've noticed that the rubber duck antenna is slightly inferior to the stock configuration. I attribute this to the loss added by the SMA connector. The loss is only a dB or two, but it's noticable. On the positive side, when connected to a higher gain antenna, the performance boost is very clear.

xtra · 07-04-2004

i just swapped the attenna between my netgear 814 AP and the mn-710. i soldered off the pigtail from the 814 and soldered it on the 710. it's a perfect fit, no trimming necessary. however, it seems not much a signal improvement in NS.

Peekitty, hows your result on the higher gain antennas?

peekitty · 07-04-2004

If you're using the rubber duck from your router, it probably won't work as well as the stock antenna on the USB unit. The purpose of this mod is gaining the flexibility to use any antenna, but there is a tradeoff if you use a marginal performer.

bobjones123 · 09-01-2004

I recently opened up an MN-710 and integrated it with a pringles can. Nothing special really - I took a 1-1/2" piece of 12-gauge copper wire and soldered it to the MN-710 antenna spot on the PCB via a very short (1/2") 18-gauge (I think) solid jumper wire. I drilled a hole in the top of the casing for it and put it back together. I secured it internally, so what you have is about 1-1/4" of 12-gauge wire coming out of the top. Stick that directly into the Pringles can where your N-Female adapter normally goes, tape it up and you have a VERY cheap setup. No need for pigtails, etc. No loss from adapters or coax and you have a 6ft. USB cable already there. I hooked up at stock MN-710 (bought 3) and compared the two. Not only did the modded one pick up AP's at a greater distance, it also seemed to work well with the pringles can removed (just the copper wire "antenna"). Will post pics if anyone is interested.

Yeah, I know - it sounds pretty bad. I know I screwed something up in using an unshielded jumper wire, so if anyone has any suggestions your input is welcome.

peekitty · 09-01-2004

That actually sounds like it might work ok provided the wire length you chose is some fraction of a wavelength. I assume the 18-gauge wire is your ground to the cantenna?

I've been experimenting with soldering different antennae to one of my USB adapters via a short section of coax and of course it works better than when there are multiple connectors in the equation. Sooner or later, I'm going to burn the solder pads off the board...

edit** I'd like to see some pics of your handiwork.

06-23-2004	#17 (permalink)
peekitty Macaca Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: S. Florida Posts: 1,056	Update Having done some more testing with a hacked vs. non-hacked unit, I've noticed that the rubber duck antenna is slightly inferior to the stock configuration. I attribute this to the loss added by the SMA connector. The loss is only a dB or two, but it's noticable. On the positive side, when connected to a higher gain antenna, the performance boost is very clear.

09-01-2004	#20 (permalink)
bobjones123 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 1	Butchered MN-710 I recently opened up an MN-710 and integrated it with a pringles can. Nothing special really - I took a 1-1/2" piece of 12-gauge copper wire and soldered it to the MN-710 antenna spot on the PCB via a very short (1/2") 18-gauge (I think) solid jumper wire. I drilled a hole in the top of the casing for it and put it back together. I secured it internally, so what you have is about 1-1/4" of 12-gauge wire coming out of the top. Stick that directly into the Pringles can where your N-Female adapter normally goes, tape it up and you have a VERY cheap setup. No need for pigtails, etc. No loss from adapters or coax and you have a 6ft. USB cable already there. I hooked up at stock MN-710 (bought 3) and compared the two. Not only did the modded one pick up AP's at a greater distance, it also seemed to work well with the pringles can removed (just the copper wire "antenna"). Will post pics if anyone is interested. Yeah, I know - it sounds pretty bad. I know I screwed something up in using an unshielded jumper wire, so if anyone has any suggestions your input is welcome.

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06-23-2004	#16 (permalink)
peekitty Macaca Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: S. Florida Posts: 1,056	Yes, you should be able to do it in exactly the same manner.

07-04-2004	#18 (permalink)
xtra Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 4	i just swapped the attenna between my netgear 814 AP and the mn-710. i soldered off the pigtail from the 814 and soldered it on the 710. it's a perfect fit, no trimming necessary. however, it seems not much a signal improvement in NS. Peekitty, hows your result on the higher gain antennas?

07-04-2004	#19 (permalink)
peekitty Macaca Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: S. Florida Posts: 1,056	If you're using the rubber duck from your router, it probably won't work as well as the stock antenna on the USB unit. The purpose of this mod is gaining the flexibility to use any antenna, but there is a tradeoff if you use a marginal performer.

09-01-2004	#21 (permalink)
peekitty Macaca Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: S. Florida Posts: 1,056	That actually sounds like it might work ok provided the wire length you chose is some fraction of a wavelength. I assume the 18-gauge wire is your ground to the cantenna? I've been experimenting with soldering different antennae to one of my USB adapters via a short section of coax and of course it works better than when there are multiple connectors in the equation. Sooner or later, I'm going to burn the solder pads off the board... edit** I'd like to see some pics of your handiwork.